Advice needed please guys. Has anyone brought a new Honda CBR250R. I,ve just changed my job and now travel 40 miles per day. Either on the M1 motorway or on backroads and dual carriageways. So i,m now looking for a newbike. Priority is fuel consumption. service costs etc. And i really like the look of this bike. Or can anyone suggest an alternative, max 650cc. Thanks Ginnelli.
Posts 9 | Views 713
fuel consumption very good!
Hi there - haven't ridden one, but I'm considering getting one after doing my test so I've done some research! Bike magazine as part of their bike reviews test on an 80 mile economy fuel loop - the CBR250 is currently top with 74.6 mpg. Honda servicing is very cheap compared to other makes. Maybe have a look at a ninja 250 also? Surprisingly, another bike I'd really like to try came third in the economy testing - the new kawasaki ER6n with 60.9mpg (although I don't know the route for this test, and I've read that although the ER6 is very economical on A and B roads, it gets a bit thirsty if you're constantly thrashing it on a motorway run). Hope that helps!
CBF500. I have one I'm about to sell, so I'm biased. Wish I could keep it really. Solid commuter, can do 75mph all day at 55mpg which isn't bad. Would dip under 40mpg if you insist on riding into three figures, but sensible use at A and B road speeds will return over 60mpg. Engine designed for an uninterrupted 250,000 miles of Honda dependability. Much more of a bike than any 250, but not much less economical. PM me if you want to know more, I'm only in Stockport.
Suzuki SV650 is a delight to ride, and not much less economical. BMW G650 is super economical and a good laugh, but not a great mile eater.
We have a Varadero 125, does 70-90mpg, yet tall and at 154kg feels like a big bike. Can show 80mph on it's speedo, but I wouldn't enjoy it on a motorway...
Don't ignore the F800 and NC700X....
I travel 55 miles each way every day on predominantly A roads and motorways so my findings may be appropriate.
I guess you are interested in Total Cost Of Ownership so you need to include petrol consumption, servicing, tyre wear, chain replacement and insurance. You also need to check what dealers are nearby to your work and if they will give you loan bikes when it is being serviced (some won't and some won't if you are too young). Its not just the cost of the servicing but how often - if your bike has a 4000 mile service interval you will see your dealer more often than a 6000...
My first thought is that allthough the CBR250 seems attractive from the fuel consumption and servicing (8000 mile service intervals) I suspect you will be frustrated with the performance and may be unpleasantly surprised by the insurance cost - when I went down to my Ninja 250 from the ER6F the performance was abysmal and I struggled to keep up with cars on bypasses etc but I was also shocked when my insurnace trippled - make sure you get a quote! Positive things about it was that I used to average low 72 mpg (ish) and tyre wear on it was very low (brakes were also good). I previously got about 65mpg on the ER6 so I didn't really think the extra cost was that much. However on both these I ended up needing to replace chain and sprockets at least once a year (even with a scotoiler) so for my next bike I tried a Deauville. I liked this very much. Performance was much better than cars and mpg was 56 (measured by fuelly) but i did find it wore out tyres quickly and servicing (with 4000 mile service intervals) was fairly expensive (only 1 service in 4 is an inspection so most of them had to be done by the dealer). Its fairing and seat are great and it is a very warm and dry bike to ride (particularly good for winter) but its engine is a little bland - much better than the 250 but when I did the figures on an F800ST I realised I could run one cheaper and they are more fun - to save money I bought a second hand F800S but I should have bought a ST for comfort... I get an average over 70mpg on fuelly (16000 miles logged and counting), insurance is cheap, service intervals are 6000 miles and the belt drive needs no maintenance (i used to spend quite a lot on chain lube too) - its supposed to be replaced every 24k but I'm still on my original one at 28K... Well worth a look if you have a suitable BMW dealer. Some of the other features such as the ABS, Tyre pressure monitoring etc are very nice...
Other bikes worth a look are the Honda NC700X which should be cheap to run and economic too although probably not as fun as the F800. Very similar to the BMW F800 except for the chain and the service intervals are 8000.
If you are considering second hand Hondas beware the service intervals - Bikes like the CBF600/1000 are good bikes for this job but only have 4000 mile service intervals so will cost more to service.
You don't say how big you are and this may also have some influence. I have a 30 inch inside leg but I like to be able to put both feet down sometimes (e.g. when traffic grinds to a halt etc) so the small to mid size bike suit me quite well - however if you are tall you may find a bigger bike like a Deauville perfect sized.
Thanks for all the advice. I,ve been riding bikes for over 30 years now. and have owned a Cbr1000, Gs850 Suzuki, K7 650 Bandit.to name a few, so insurance costs are not a problem. I want to be able to use the bike for most of the year ( weather permitting) and want a more upright riding position. I previously looked at the CBF500 and BMW,s so I think i,ll take a run down to Pidcocks at the weekend and check them out. Thanks Ginnelli.
be more up for the ninja 250 over the honda as it's nice and simple. Anything that there is to go wrong is cheap to fix. It's even got the old school speedo cable - easy to diagnose and easy to fix when it goes wrong. That and as it has been out wrong there will be more in breakers and more third party parts out there.
Really though it's probably mostly down to which is more comfortable.
I also think you should consider the tyre sizes and which tyres fit. If you plan on doing a mix of motorway and the other route then you'll be quite specific on your tyre requirements so as to not square them off, so the available sizes may be an issue.
The chain thing
I've had a couple of shafties, and yes, they're very clean and (some are) reliable and hassle free. But a decent chain with a properly set up Scottoiler, on decent sprockets, is pretty cost effective, not too messy, and significantly more efficient. My present (OEM Tsubaki) chain is on 32K miles, is just into it's second 500ml bottle of lube, and has needed negligible adjustment since bedding in over the first 3K. I've used about £2 worth of injector tubing to make fresh nozzles a couple of times. The chain is comfortably outlasting a full set of of discs - now there's a cost.
Actually, if you get on with the position even a litre sports bike can be reasonably cost effective on longer distances - I've had over 60mpg touring, over 55mpg A+B road commuting, but nowadays with traffic and motorways its 40-45mpg depending on restraint. In my experience 600 fours drink as much, and often more. What does add up though are 3500k minor services, 7k plugs, 14k clearance checks, and fat expensive rubber...
Hmm. You have me thinking. I'm guessing it isn't because of how I ride
I used to get them replaced when they got sufficiently stretched in some links that it was almost impossible to get it correctly adjusted and also my bike used to vibrate excessively.
Must be more down to the width of the chains than anything else. The bikes I have had with chains have been fairly low end - I have only owned the ER6 and 250R with chains but I remember even a CBR600F (circa 2002) has a much fatter chain than an ER6 (or 250R) so I guess a CBR600F chain (and probably a 1000 sports too) would probably last longer providing it isn't ragged too much. Its a shame but there isn't much scope for upgrading the chains on a bike you can buy more expensive ones but the width is pretty fixed... Maybe I need to think again about chain drive bikes and ask specific questions about chains on specific bike models...
Width, quality and sprockets
My first bike, an old GP125, had a cheap non-O-ring, non-OEM chain. Constantly cleaned and lubed but it needed adjusting every other time I used the bike. Nightmare. Couldn't afford to change the cogs, paid for it though as the worn sprockets took the new chain out pretty quick.
Some folk go down from 530 to 520 for less weight and drag, but if a bike comes with a real Japanese 530 it may outlast some recent German shafts.
Be good if you could get quality 530 kits for 600s that come with 520. If looked after they'd last forever...