my CBF500 rear wheel bearing have got play in them again , they were only replaced 6 months ago , anybody had this kind of issue before ?
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this is a motorcycle forum
what the F are you posting thi....................oh yeh, i see now!
...and no, sorry!
are they zzs
NSK zzs? go for them next time
**are they **
the plasticy ones,
if so find a bearing engineering shop, take old bearing and they will measure it for you and replace with stainless ones,
had prob with an old dirt bike which were plastic, changed for ss lasted a lot longer
do a ZZ. Shielded stainless
**honda parts **
from the local dealers , thought they were stainless steel
Some years ago I was left stranded when my sprocket carrier came adrift, signalled by a clicking from the chain and a visible offset when I pulled over. My regular mechanic was surprised and I've since wondered whether my fierce rear wheel cleaning regime (with all sorts of acidic sprays) took the grease out. My wheels are now badly in need of paint.
How do folks with white wheels keep them looking good, I wonder?
Bearings can be ruined/damaged at fitting and also with faulty/damaged spacers causing side/axial stress.
What the f*ck is plasticy ones?
Like the Jaffaman say
Fitting a wheel bearing (just a guide for a novice)
Clean thoroughly, then warm the housing (next to a rad overnight will suffice), chill the bearing (overnight in the fridge will help), then quickly fit using a hammer and a round drift which is slightly smaller than the outside diameter of the bearing. Do not hit the inner.
If it has a seperate outer seal, grease it well internally with moly grease, then fit using the same drift.
Do not use lithium grease!
poor fitting techniques can bugger them in no time, insufficient cleaning of components at installation, jetwashing can blast grease out, and trying to use a "substitute" bearing thats ever-so-slightly the wrong size (eg, trying to force fit a 2" / 50.8mm bearing into a 50mm recess - and yep, I've seen it done) can all cause trouble later on. Any seals should be replaced as a matter of course.
One food factory I know of often end up replacing bearings practically every 6 weeks on some of their conveyors - a combination of bad fitting (damaging the bearing and seals) and high-pressure washing (water and detergents getting into the newly damaged "new" bearing) buggered them in no time at all.
If your chain is too tight, it can knacker bearings...
I doubt you have the wrong size bearing so I would just suggest re greasing before fitting. The manufactures say they are greased for life, but i think thats a load of bollox, take a good look at the new bearing when you get them, fug all grease in them. So forget the double zz and if you get a double sealed bearing with plastic shields, remove one side, pack with suitable grease and fit the bearing with the unsealed side facing in. Using the old bearing is a good way of drifting them home (dont forget to remove any bits of swarf from the old before doing so.
my local dealer will supply and fit new ones for £43 , so gonna get them to fit em
my back wheel bearing gave out on my monkey bike and i had to use a gas torch to heat the hub to get the old one out. plus they are easy to fit
eatscs01 made a very good point
A chain set too tight can ruin not only the wheel bearings, but also the gearbox mainshaft bearing, or even snap.
Too loose and it can jump the sprocket.
Personally, I set my chain with the bike on the centrestand to 35mm of up/down movement on the bottom run at at its tightest point.
Then check it has approx. 20mm of movement in the same position when back on its wheels with someone my weight sat on the bike.
Each to their own, this is my method, which gives me approx. 30k to a chain kit with regular maintenance.