Hi I have some rusty nuts and bols on my scooter that I want to try and clean up a bit. Any solutions that will remove this?
Rusty nuts and bolts
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rusty nuts and bolts with new ones that are nice and shiny
Sorry I'm poorly
Go on Ebay. You can get assorted bags of stainless nuts and bolts on there for around a tenner. Always worth having them for emergencies or just to replace ones that are looking a bit ropey. Just make sure the ones you buy are similar to the ones you want to change....... Innit!
How beautiful it is to be silent when some think you should be enraged.
and here's something to play
whilst you're at it Dumpy's Rusty Nuts
Knowledge is knowing how to keep fit
Wisdom is knowing that you should train the entire body not just your keyboard fingers and gob, lest you put your back out 😉
A2 or A4 stainless..dont bother replacing with ,ild steel untreated as you'll have the same issues..(used to work on Land Rovers). Our 99 volvo v70 is immaculate underneath, and it we have to travel in the crappiest mud on our lanes in Lincolnshire during the winter months..but it a Proper volvo form sweden..not the crap they make now, or don't!
Ultra Sonic bath
I cleaned up my jets ect and they came out brand new. Great piece of kit for other things around the home.
Ultra sonic bath
And leaves the said rusty bolts without a coating to corrode immediately.
Just buy some stainless items off Ebay. Job done.
Which is why
man invented grease
He wants to clean them, not replace them as he said. What steel bolts come with a coating anyway other than a dab of spray to stop them rusting in transit from the maker to the supplier? I have been making nuts and bolts since I was 17 and I'm now 41 so i guess I know what I'm talking about." />
Nuts & bolts
If any of those fasteners are torque tightened, they need to be original specification, they could shear if a weaker material or not be under torque if a stronger material.
Best route is as tabasco said, then nothing goes wrong.
Cheapest and quickest
solution would be go to the car accessories shop or a well stocked bike shop and get suitable rust treatment chemicals, some will just paint over the surface neutralising and stopping further corrosion and can also be painted over in a desired colour, some will strip the rust off AND the plating to bare metal and may also eat away at any alloy and some other metals, so make sure you get suitable ones! and protective gear, gloves etc. read the labels before buying!
If going down the route of using stainless and alloy fasteners, they MUST be of a suitable grade of material, inner casings like crankcases need higher tensile bolts, outer casings without loadings are less critical, but even there that may depend on what else is bolted to a scooters casings, some of it forms part of the chassis in effect. Also you may require sutable greases to fit the bolts, stainless is notorious for having rougher surface on threads, causing more difficulty in achieving correct torque settings, titanium bolts also require specific greases as well. There is also galvanic action or electrolytic corrosion to consider between dis-similar materials, another reason for the grease, this is accelerated if you are riding in winter with the salty roads.
Finally, do not use aluminium alloy bolts on safety related items like brake caliper and brake lever mounts, use steel, stainless steel, or titanium of high tensile specification.
Tabasco, are non of your bolts sent for plating, galvanising, sheradising, anodising, or any of the other processes suitable for different materials? how long do they last? are they being regularly re-covered in grease and oil? or are they in constant immersion in non corrosive fluids? or are we talking huge nuts (lol) and bolts on bridges with repeated paint or other coatings?
High tensile bolts
are not plated.
But I'm sure you are aware of that.
I presume you are addressing me,
Mr Sikpunz/Mr Krismus (not sure which might be your family name as I know not what religion you may be or from where in the world, sounds foreign to me anyway)
Anyhow, you can in fact have plated high tensile bolts, although electroplating runs a high risk of the resultant hydrogen embrittlement causing failure, this would of course be very dependant on which particular plating process and for how long, incidentally acid cleaning, particularly long term soaking methods will also give rise to similar problems (some unpleasant chemicals are used in electroplating and the electric currents contribute to accelerating those effects) but it is possible, varying subsequent heat processes can be used to minimise the resultant effects.
Also there are varying hot dip processes possible which avoid those problems (have a look at wire mesh livestock fences, which use tensile wire and galvanising)
It is also possible to mechanically plate components using fine powdered metals to coat the items, and various heat treatment processes also impart a certain level of corrosion protection, there's a whole array of possibilities, and some processes have fallen into disuse on cost or complexity or time grounds.
Besides all this, I never actually specified any particular treatment on any particular material in the first place , did I?
and silver paint.
From a distance, it'll be fine.
And much safer than removing all those fasteners.