I've got a 2008 gsf650 bandit with only 16k on the clock. Just looking for some advice with regard to gear changes. When changing from 1st to 2nd and to a lesser extent 2nd to 3rd there is good clunk as the gear engages. If I do a WOT take off the clunk is far worse. Is this just the style of gearbox or is there a better way to change gears. Only been riding for 6 months so it may just be me.
Bandit gear changes
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Suzi gearboxes are normally very good, HOWEVER, your chain adjustment/lubrication can and will have an adverse effect on a good gearchange, as will the engine oil itself. There is usually more of a clunk when going from 1st to 2nd, because you're going through neutral. You do not say if your clutch is dragging at all, as this will cause the clunk. If you're just pootling along, and go to 2nd almost as soon as the wheels are rolling, does it clunk then? And just how bad is the clunk??
VOLVO, built by Swedes, usually driven by other vegetables.....
I'd check chain adjustment, lubrication and if it's rusting in this weather.
You should also oil the linkages from the gear lever itself.
The clutch isn't dragging however the chain does seem loose to me. I did ask the garage when I bought it a few months ago and they said it was ok although I still thought it wasn't right but as I don't know much about motorcycles I assumed they were right. Basically, at low speeds I get a good vibration from the chain. Higher speeds are ok. The chain also knocks against the top of the arm especially if the chain gets a bit dry.
If I am just pootling along it does go in gear with no clunk and is generally smoother.
Hope that assists?
What condition is the chain in? Put the bike on its stand, and kneel on the ground on the chain side of the back wheel. Left, in your case. If you get hold of a chain link, at the 3 o'clock position on the rear sprocket, will the link pull far away from the sprocket?? If it'll lift away enough to see the bottom of the sprocket teeth, then it's time for a new chain/sprocket set. Your handbook or manual should tell how much slack should be in the chain, usually measured in the bottom run of the chain.
VOLVO, built by Swedes, usually driven by other vegetables.....
The chain looks ok (to my very untrained eye). Will give it a pull later on and see how much it comes away. Will let you know. Cheers for the help.
What`s a WOT take off?.
Also has the engine oil been renewed lately?
Wide Open Throttle!! Not sure about oil but will be changing it just to be sure. It should have been done when I bought it but I doubt it.
From a cold start does your bike jolt forwards when selecting 1st gear?
Same again does your bike jolt forwards in 1st gear with engine warmed up?
What`s the clutch lever position when it bites?
1/4 way,1/2 way 3/4 way OUT?
WOT launching of any motorcycle will give undue stress to the clutch, gearbox, and cycle components.
It won't be long before your asking for advice on how to replace your gearbox and or the chain as it has snapped.
Go back to using the bike as it was intended to be used you'll find it will work as it should do and may even last longer.
assumption is the mother of all f*** ups.
I did hundreds of WOT throttle launches on my Bandit 600 with no problems whatsoever (although I was hard on the clutches) and even drag raced it for 2 seasons with Nitrous on it. I assume the liquid cooled 650 is just as bullet proof. The oil/air cooled 650 IS just as bullet proof.
Anyhoo, it sounds as if your chain needs some attention.
Do you use the clutch when changing up through the gears, or do you do it clutchless??
More practice required!!!!
I have checked the condition of the chain and it looks fine, just a bit loose.
The bike does jolt forward when engaging 1st whether cold or warm.
I don't do many WOT starts, just occasionally. Normally I just give it a bit of beans.
The clutch engages about 1/2 way out, has good bite. and doesn't slip. Just checked the oil and it seems a little low
is permissible when cold but NOT when hot,
you`ve got clutch drag,
clutch bite 1/2 way out is ok,
you could have a too fast tickover,
too much oil in the engine,
or the wrong type of oil in the engine.
Chain tension should be minimum 1" or 25mm slack in the middle of the bottom run (bike not on the centre stand).
It may sound like a daft question but how would I know if I have clutch drag? The bike doesn't move if stationary and in first. This is the second bandit I have had (crashed first one 6 days after passing test!!!!). Same spec as the first and the tickover is the same so I happy that is ok.
Got done Putaline oil and filter from suzuki so gonna do that in the morning.
Whst is the maximum the chain should move to? Currently it moves to about 2" in the centre but that is on 2 wheels.
Clutch drag is when the bike moves forwards when selecting 1st gear with engine warmed up.Worse case is when the engine stalls when selecting 1st from cold.
Chain tension should be checked with a person on the bike with both feet up (chock side stand to near vertical)and checked in a few places (moving bike forwards a little at a time).
After doing this setting note the tension without a person on the bike to see if any difference and also again on the centre stand.This is so you can set the tension at any of the 3 stages.
Chain slack as said,25mm (min) 35mm (max). USING YOUR LITTLE FINGER.
Oil change,hold the clutch lever in (string) to relax the clutch plates only when draining warm to hot oil.
Had a look in the manual and it says to adjust the chain when the bike is on the SIDE stand? Would that not make it difficult to adjust the wheel?
the chain on the centre stand and recheck as my last post.
You may have 25mm with rider on also 30mm with rider off and also 35mm on the centre stand at the same time.
Trail bikes can have 25mm chain slack with rider off but will tighten up and break with rider on.
Chain adjusted and oil changed. Gear changes are much smoother. Thanks for all your assistance.
bear in mind that chain adjustment is basic maintenance. Especially if you make a habit of giving it the beans - I'm not saying there's anything wrong with thrashing it if that's how you like to ride but it will put more stress on components and the chain is one of them - it will require adjusting more frequently. Not so much the oil change as that's usually a garage service thing. I have attended to an idiot who let his chain fall off. He was very lucky it didn't wrap around his ankle and take his foot off or wrap around the rear wheel and send him off. You don't need to be going fast to decapitate yourself on a lamp post (30mph will do it). He had all the required tools at home but never used them and as a result could have died. Make sure your bike is well looked after and you'll be the limiting factor on the road. That means checking oil, tyre pressures and condition, chain and electrics regularly, especially if you're going to ride fast as your bike needs to be in good condition in order that it will react properly and predictably when being pushed.
Oh and the garage that said your chain looked fine? Don't trust them if they can't tell a saggy chain on sight.