latest theory on poor running could it possibly be carb icing.All the research i have done leads me to think that this is what ias making my zzr100 runerraticaly at the moment .Just put some pro fst in tank and do a test ride tomorrow,heres hoping.Anyone had any experience with this product good or bad.
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Any tests or trials is a good idea to find a fault better or worse.
Has the carbs any heaters or coolant pipes around/in them?
If your talking low speed running up to 3,000rpm have you the standard air filter fitted?
After poor running is there a down pipe cooler than the others?
The spark plugs colours should tell a tale.
The coolant flows around and through the carbs. There are 2 filters in this system IIRC. Sounds like they might need cleaning. However, Kawasakis are well known to suffer with carb icing, especially ZZRs with their ram air...
there is a coolant feed to carbs but i couldnt find the location of the filters ,i didnt know there was two.The problem has been weather related before i fitted a kand n and after.Eatcs01 do you know location of the coolant filters
Silkolene Pro FST.
I'm not sure these carb heaters are effective. Silkolene Pro FST works for my Kawasaki. My old 950cc Peugeot 106 used to carb-ice too. If the fuel additive (it's mostly iso-propanol, I believe) doesn't do the trick I'd say you have a different problem.
thanks its good to here that the fst dose work .Its throwing it down at moment so test ride will have to wait.
I don't know where the filters are on the 1100. You need to trace the two pipes back from the carbs. IIRC the filters are NOT clear, but are solid black in colour. They are serviceable though.
They help with carb icing, but don't eliminate it completely...
if it's cutting out due to carb icing, the simple answer is: give it 10 minutes (if you smoke, go for a cig), and the engine heat will rise to the carbs, and defrost your frozen carb jets (after this, it won't cut out for the rest of the journey).
The cause of icing in the carburettor venturi is cold moist air and the speed at which the air is drawn into the engine constant throttle positions are more likely to create icing.
If the fuel treatment and the manufacturers 'carb heaters' are not effective then a little less speed and some additional carburettor lagging is always worth a try. I have used pipework to direct heat from the engine exhaust towards the carburettors or you could use lagging round the carburettor bodies.
AdieR:- The first part of your post is correct that waiting will allow the engines own heat to defrost the carb/s.
I have to disagree that carb icing will only occur once in any given journey. It is more likely to occur at intervals on longer journeys or when the moisture levels in the ambient air is higher.
The icing occurs in the carburettor venturi not the jets, thus restricting the air flow into the engine.
assumption is the mother of all f*** ups.
Buy your lady one of these,
after trying it under your seat aimed at the carb intake.
I stand corrected on the venturi - my error.
That said, I've never had a repeat problem with carb icing after the defrosting (whenever I've had it, it's only happened once and been OK after).
That said, it would be interesting to know what the "erratic running" / symptoms / patterns are, and the work carried out so far (not been on that much lately).
well the pro fst has worked to a certain extent ,aftrer a carb clean and k and n filter fitted.I had a slight amount of spluttering and fluffiness so stopped the bike as advised by aide r and waited four minutes,bike started with ease and carried on three miles to work with bike idling at a stop.Cant be fully comitted to endorsing pro fst but there is something in it that makes a difference,for example when bike starts on choke it revs more freely than it used to.
I wouldn't credit Pro FST with anything more than easing carb-icing problems, which it's good at in my experience. I'd say a readiness to rev is more likely due to the additional carb work you've done (-or the placebo effect).