I need to take my front wheel off to take it along and get a new tyre fitted, problem is, one of the caliper bolts is seized. Tried penetrating oil(no laughing at the back), a heat gun and even a hammer but nowts shifting the bugger! Any suggestions? Its an Allen bolt, I'm pretty sure its starting to deform so thought I would ask before I fuck it right in and have to take a grinder to it. Ta.
Mechanical help please
Posts 52 | Views 329
of impact driver thingamabob?
If it were me I'd just use rage, fail and take it to a man but I have heard that said man might use the above or something like.
If it looks like it's going to strip the head, you could try spot welding an allen key bit to it ( remember to disconnect the battery if going down this route)
Failing that get phil round with his rage or just 'fuck it right in'
Have you tried a ...
for knocking nails
in snev. haha, I'm guessing you send your newbies at work for a left handed one
our students to ask a porter for a "long stand".
Best one is to send them to gynae for a fallopian tube, although our lot aren't that stupid.
A Long Wait and some left handed Screwdrivers......(usually)....and when Decorating, a tin of Stripy Paint....the Hammer four has been good.....over the years mind......
Once sent a girl
to the butchers for a pound of chicken lips, butcher played along and said he'd sold out, she was thick though
If the internal corners are starting to round off on your allen bolt, get hold of a parallel punch with a good squared off tip, small enough not to outsize the head of the bolt. Use a hammer, doesn't have to be the heaviest one you have, to tap around the top of the bolt to the point where the opening is a bit smaller that the allen key.
Now get your allen key, if you're using a standard allen key with a right angled top on it, forget that because the same thing will happen again, get a socket type one 3/8 drive should do and tap it into the bolt with your hammer. The fettling you've already done with your hammer and punch will have reduced the hole inside so your allen key will be a nice snug fit again. Now get a ratchet or preferably a 3/8 drive knuckle bar and start to gently unscrew it, if you get it loosened a bit then try easing it backwards and forwards so you progressively loosen it a little more each time. Use your penetrating fluid and if you need heat use a gas flame, applying it to the thread housing that the bolt screws into.
Lastly, if using a flame and fluid be careful not to set fire to your bike!!
stand might be interpreted as a drip stand for us so you can see why they might think it's real.
They have never managed it on me.... yet. Apparently I'm an "extremely experienced sonographer" which makes me laugh. I'm 28. I have more experience riding a bike than scanning and frankly you'd not call me extremely experienced after riding for 7 or 8 years.
Asked a Librarian for a
Tall story Once........was told to Shhhhhh's
a librarian for a wank one.
She gave me a cold, hard stare.
EDIT: If you think I'm off topic, I was still asking her for "mechanical help".
A tin of sky hooks, to which the knowing storeman's reply is, "Do you want blue ones or grey ones?"
you need to soak it with penetrating oil if you can get some at an engineers suppliers or Plusgas was another. Get it as hot as you can with a hot air gun and get an impact driver and knock shit out of it. If that doesn't work, drill the head off then get someone with engineering background to drill the rest out and helicoil the thread. When you re-assemble it, use a high melting point grease, just a smear on the threads and you shouldn't have a problem again! If that one is tight, you'll probably find more that are as well so it will be good practice!
Phil.....I reckon I've spotted
where you might be going wrong with women..............
you're way too shy........
I would in your shoes drill off the head of the Allen bolt by using a drill bit just big enough to go down the hole in the head of the bolt.
By doing this you will in effect relieve the tension on the bolt threads and if there is corrosion between bolt shank and caliper it will be easier to persuade the caliper to come off.
Once the caliper is out of the way heat the shank of the remaining bolt and first try to tighten it (either Mole grips or a set of 12" Stilsons should do the trick). This will break the 'seal' between the threads.
you should then with the aid of lubrication be able to unwind the offending bolt shank.
Remember to replace with a bolt of the correct tensile strength.
I always use a coat of 'Neverseize' on bolts when I refit them.
assumption is the mother of all f*** ups.
Compared to the total whores who I go for.
why are you having to remove the calliper......?
I have to remove both my callipers to get the front wheel out too, no way will it come past them.
Barney...I ain't got a clue really
Not since the X7.........
get an allen socket, although the head of your screw might be rounded it will be in the anti clockwise direction.............put the socket in and bash it four times with a hammer the same way you would if you found a aids ridden rapist on your wife (in other words rather hard.....if you dont like your wife try your mother.....girl/boyfriend....what ever makes you swing that hammer) then try turning a maximum of one eighth of a turn clockwise.........if it goes then get the oil in and do a half turn out quarter in till said bolt is out...............if this fails then back to drilling and easy outs" />